Visit Alnmouth

In AD 684 at Alnmouth (under the name of Twyford – the place of two fords), Cuthbert, later to become St. Cuthbert, was chosen to become Bishop of Lindisfarne, in the presence of King Ecgrith and Archbishop Thodore. In AD 793, the Vikings raided Lindisfarne and over the following years plundered many places on the East Coast. In 1789 two fragments of a Saxon cross were found on Church Hill, dating back to the late 9th / early 10th centuries.  A fairly recent Cross now stands on Church Hill. Early in the 12thC the Normans laid out a new town, called St. Waleric, after the Saint to whom the church was dedicated. It is thought that they built the church on the hill, or extended an existing church. Alnmouth prospered as a fishing harbour and indeed, in 1207 was granted a charter to have a market every Wednesday. St. Waleric soon became known as Alnmouth, owing to its position at the mouth of the river Aln. Alnmouth continued to prosper over the years; it provided a harbour for ships engaged in foreign trade, as well as local fishing boats. In 1316 and 1326, the bailiff was ordered to provide vessels suitably equipped for a military expedition to Gascony. All ships over 30 tons were requisitioned for the defence of the Kingdom. In 1348, the Black Death reached Alnmouth, probably on board one of the trading ships. More than a third of the inhabitants succumbed to the plague.  At the time, the English and the Scots fought for possession of Northumberland, and in the mid 14thC, Alnmouth was reported to have been almost destroyed. Slowly the town began to recover and by the 15thC improvements were made to the harbour and ships were once again exporting wool, coal and other produce. The Border Reivers were still active at this time, and the burgers were ordered to keep watch on Wallop Hill 24 hours a day, with enough wood to light a fire as a warning to the countryside, should marauding Scots be seen. In 1606, after the Union of the Crowns of England and Scotland, the borders became peaceful once more and Northumberland became an extensive corn growing area. In the Napoleonic Wars food was not only needed for the large army and navy, but also the horses, which were the main form of transport. Northumberland, and especially Alnmouth, came into their own. Late in the 17thC and the 18thC, Alnmouth prospered. There were at one time 16 Granaries and 18 vessels recorded in the busy harbour. Fishing was still important, but there were also topsail schooners and brigs sailing backwards and forwards to Newcastle and London, Berwick and Edinburgh, as well as across the sea to Scandinavia and Holland.  In the mid 19th Century, Oyster beds were built in the river, but they soon silted up.  A Sawmill was opened on the South side near Waterside Farm.  A Guano store was also built on the South side of the river. Even today, it is easy to imagine this busy port, and the number of licensed premises reflects the number of thirsty men who worked here. The rumour of Napoleon III's invasion seemed a real threat at the time, and the Duke of Northumberland raised a group of Percy Volunteers to be ready in the event of a landing. In 1862, a battery was built on the top of the hill and, though much altered, it is still there today. On Christmas Day in 1806 during a great storm, the river changed course to the North of Church Hill, cutting it off from the village. The Church, which had fallen into disrepair, was finally demolished by the storm. The change in the course of the river proved disastrous for Alnmouth, the ships found it harder and harder to enter the harbour, and eventually Alnmouth fell into a decline. The advent of the railway in the mid 19thC nearly finished Alnmouth, providing easy and quick transport between Edinburgh and London. The railway however, which was thought to be such a disaster for Alnmouth, became its salvation. The Victorians came to love Alnmouth as a holiday destination. Building work became extensive, with large houses built for the wealthy families and their servants and other buildings converted to lodging houses. It was fashionable in the evenings for the visitors to stroll down Northumberland Street and gather at the estuary. When a gas works was built, baths were constructed nearby where visitors could enjoy a warm sea-water bath, thought to be of therapeutic and medical value in those times. Other amenities provided at those times were beach huts, and the common was converted to a golf course, (the second oldest links course in England), circa 1869. At that time the village boasted a grocer, baker, shoemaker, carpenter and ironmongers. After World War II, Alnmouth once again became a holiday destination. Visitors return again and again to this pretty historic village, where time stands still, and it is easy to imagine it through its history. Alnmouth is an interesting place to explore, with tiny narrow lanes and old stone buildings. The river estuary, once a busy port, is now home to small pleasure craft. The Beach is sandy and expansive, and there are rock pools in which to find crabs and small fish. At low tide the river can be crossed by foot; you can walk to Warkworth for refreshments and get the bus back. By any standards, Alnmouth is small; there is no through traffic as there is nothing beyond the village but the North Sea. Little lanes invite you to explore. Many of the houses are converted Granaries and most are made from local stone. The street was never made for the car and on-street parking can be a problem during the summer months. You can feel you are "away from it all", but still have the convenience of being within minutes walk of pubs, restaurants, and the wonderful beaches.

Alnmouth & Lesbury

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